How to build a BSP GT12 01 and 04 Chassis.
To build the kit you will need: .047 wire, .062wire .032 id stainless steel tubing, .032 id and .062 id brass tubing. Building of any slot car chassis requires care. Please ensure that you wear protective eye glasses and only use tools in the recommend way. Soldering should be done in a well ventilated area.
The order I build the chassis is not the only way, but is a method I have come to from building many chassis.
Below is a picture of the chassis frame. The pieces locate into the slots marked with corresponding letter.
Stage one is to clean up the chassis and all the slots. Use a diamond file if possible.
Stage two is the remove all the parts from the layout and keep them safe!
Next
is to attach the guide (b) and spacer plate (a). Use the locating hole and
a small piece of an old axle to line up the pieces. This also adds alot of
strength to the guide plate.
At
the back of the chassis insert the pillow blocks (c) into place and the motor
box brace (d) over the top of the chassis. I solder the pillow blocks at the
front of the motor box first. This allows me to ensure that the rear axle
is square to the chassis. Once you are sure everything is interlocking and
positioned correctly, solder the motor box brace into place and then the pillow
blocks.
The
rear pin tube holders (f) are 2mm diameter holes.
There
are two types are of front pin tube holder (g). The latest versions of the
chassis (BSP GT12 2004s and GT12 2004) have the oval holes.
The
BSP GT12 2003 has the small round holes.
Next
is to attched the chassis rails. These are made of .062 piano wire which is
soldered at the front and inserted into the soldered .062i.d. brass tube at
the rear. Cut the wire and tube to length and ensure the wire moves freely
in the tube. Solder the tube into the slot first (which may need filing on
the top corners to let the tube sit flush with the underside of the chassis)
and make sure the wire still moves freely. If lined up correctly, the wire
should drop into the corresponding slot at the front. Solder in place.
The pan upstops
are made from two lengths of .047 wire. These are soldered to the pans only
but pass through the upstop 'hoops' (e). The chassis
should now be cleaned thoroughly and remove any excess solder. This is now
an USRA legal chassis. Pin tubes are free choice, with various opitions:
solid or floating, Stainless steel (giving more body movement) or brass.
The chassis below has floating tubes front and rear, but with a slight restriction
of rear movement, done by using the brass tubing.
A complete
chassis should look like this. Before you go winning, just add front wheels
using a bent pin soldered to the chassis in the relevant position.
rear tube
front tube
Note the brass
collets to hold the pin tubes in place.
