How to build a BSP Falcon F1 Chassis.

To build the kit you will need: .047 wire, .062wire .032 id stainless steel tubing, and .062 id brass tubing. The chassis also requires some 14mm dia rigid front wheels. Building of any slot car chassis requires care. Please ensure that you wear protective eye glasses and only use tools in the recommend way. Soldering should be done in a well ventilated area.

The order I build the chassis is not the only way, but is a method I have come to from building many chassis.

Below is a picture of the chassis frame. The pieces locate into the slots marked with corresponding letter.

The chassis is REVERSIBLE. for a Falcon 1 or 3 it should be built as shown in the instructions. For falcon2 motors, build the chassis upside down.

The guide tongue (b)and spacer plate (a) are located with an 3/32 piece of tube, wire or part of an old axle. This also makes the joint much stronger. The pin tube supports (f) should all be flush with the underside of the chassis. Note which way up the chassis is

The rear pillow blocks (c) should be carefully installed. Ensure that the axle is both level and square with the chassis when the rear brace (D) is soldered in place. Adjusting this later can be difficult.

The front axle assembly can be done several ways. You can either make a cranked axle as shown, or use a straight piece of wire. This method may need some bracing to strengthen it.

The front axle supports (e) and the majority of 14mm dia front wheels are for .062 diameter wire. Bend the wire as shown, making sure the wire bends are within the supports. Height ajustment should be done using the front wheels and some shim under the chassis. I recommend no more that .010 front ride height. Spend time getting the axle level and square before soldering it all in place. To adjust later is very tricky.

The next task is to make the chassis spine hinge. For this you need a piece of .062 wire and 2 pieces of the .062 id brass tube. Cut the pieces to length first and solder in the long part of the tube. Once you are sure this is flat and inline put in the wire and the other part of the tube. The small piece of tube should be soldered to the motor box and the wire soldered to the small piece of tube ONLY. Make sure the joint moves freely.

The maximum allowed track is 68mm. Maximising this will increase the cars stability and cornering potential. Use the .062 in tube solered to the front axle to act as stops for the wheels.

Cut the axle to 68mm and solder on 2 very small pieces of .062 tubing to keep the wheels in place. It is important the wheels rotate!

Rear upstops are located at the back of the pans and are made from .047 wire. They dont work until the motor is attached, and use the motor side to stop the pans from rising too high. These can be adjusted once the motor is installed.

The pintubes on the chassis are all floating. For the front tube cut the stainless tube to the right lenght and use 2 colletts (or tubing) to stop the tube from escaping.

The rear tube uses the same method, but each side has its own pair of supports.

Finally, put in a set of oilites amking sure that the axle can run freely in them once they are soldered in place. With low pwered motors this is VERY important.

A finished chassis should like this.