The kit of parts should look like this. clean up all the slots and then remove the parts carefully from the sprew. Keep them safe!

Once you have done this make sure the centre section is VERY flat. Bend and tweak if needed.

Insert and solder in place the front hinge mount and upstops into the front bumper. On the sides of the motor box put the cross bar upstops. Attach the side rails (with the pieces found on the centre section part of the kit), and also the hooks and solder securely. Make sure the chassis is still flat at this stage.

At the front on this chassis is an optional bar soldered across the bumper behind the guide upstop. This strenghtens and stifens the front end.

The next part is the build up the rear end. I have used a pair of oilites to ensure the pillow blocks are upright. Set the height using a pair of NEW gears.

The centre spine is made up using .047 wire, and 3 eyelets. I use 2 oval ones in the centre section and a round one in the motor box. Ensure the wire can move freely from side to side before you solder them in. Once in place and the wire and motor box eyelet are soldered check the spine wire is level.

Attach the guide and spacer using the interlocking 'T' piece. Ensure it is level and moves left to right equally and smoothly.

Set the front hinges correctly, positioning them so with the pan fully back they are 'in' as far as possible.

Put the cross bar stops in the pans, and complete the cross bar with 0.32 wire. Make sure that the wire is level with the lower side of it. Put it in place and tweak it until the pans dont hang up or drop below the chassis. .

Make up the hinges using the pieces provided or .032 brass tube. Solder the tube ONLY to the pan, make sure the wire can still move freely. Insert the wire through the hole in the cross bar and sloder in place.

Add the pin tubes (Brass or stainless). I like to have a floating pintube at the front. To do this open up the holes slighty.

To hold the leadwires there is an earring back infront of the spine.